Moshi Day Trips — Cultural Visit and Kikuletwa Hot Springs

by Elizabeth

Between the time we spent in Moshi before and after our Kilimanjaro climb, we ended up spending an entire week in Moshi — a town in which most tourists typically only overnight before starting their Kili climb, safari, or heading back to the airport.  Unfortunately, it wasn’t so much the sights that kept us there for so long.  Nor was it because we found some awesome or relaxing place to stay that we just couldn’t bring ourselves to tear away from.  We largely spent so much time in Moshi because it was convenient and we used it as a base to plan our Kilimanjaro climb (and wait for Michael to hopefully get better before starting our climb).  In total, we spent 4 nights/3 full days in Moshi before our climb, and another three nights/two and a half days in Moshi after our climb and before our safari.

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Walking into town — Tanzania loves its traffic circles.  Note that even the paved roads end up covered in dust.

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Independent Hiking Around Lushoto

by Elizabeth

Having recovered from our Kili descent and washing much (but not all) of the safari dust out of our clothes during our rest day in Arusha, we were faced with the question of where we would go next. The obvious option — what nearly everyone suggested and most tourists were doing — would have been to head to Zanzibar. The problem was that we sort of suck at beaches (we burn and get bored way too easily), we’d heard mixed reviews on the scuba diving options, and at this point in our trip we weren’t interested in many of the attractions (coffee and spice tours). Also, Zanzibar isn’t exactly known for being budget friendly and our climb and safari were both budget busters. What we really wanted to do was go for a hike. Surprising, I know.

Hiking independently in Tanzania presented many of the same problems that we ran into in Bosnia (lack of information and infrastructure), with the added challenge that guides are required in many of the parks, park fees can be exorbitant, and I guess lions that might eat us. We were also limited by our reliance on public transit and had no interest in renting a car (they drive on the other side of the road, we don’t drive stick, four wheel drive is necessary for most places we’d want to go, etc.). Based on our limitations, our guide book and Google both suggested that we head to the town of Lushoto, although it was still unclear to what extent we might need to hire a guide.  Lushoto is located in northeast Tanzania off of the road between Arusha/Moshi and Tanga and is considered one of the gateways to the Usambara mountains.  It is the base for several popular multi-day hikes in the mountains between villages, as well as various day hikes.  

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How to Find the Giant David Bowie Mural in Sarajevo

David Bowie is well-regarded in Sarajevo, in part because he attempted to schedule a concert in Sarajevo during the siege. While the concert never happened, in response to David Bowie’s passing a local artist did his best to honor Bowie with a giant mural on a hollowed-out building:

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Fashion changes but you’ll always be my heroes.

I found out about this but couldn’t find good directions, so hopefully this post will show up on searches and help visitors find it. The mural is on the University of Sarajevo campus, near the eastern end of the campus, on a wall facing west. The University campus is just east of the United States Embassy. This is south of the train/bus station, with the mural itself southeast of the station. If you enter the campus near the United States Embassy and wander generally toward the east, you will probably get there.

There is a 360 degree view on Google Maps, but a search won’t find it. You can look up that 360 degree view here (this starts with you facing away from the mural, but you can spin around).

Alternatively, you can find it by landmarks. There is a residential tower with a giant coffee advertisement on the western side.

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You can see this even from the train station:

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Look for the red building in the middle (partially behind a tree).

The David Bowie mural is just to the northeast of that building.

Further north on the campus is this pilgrimage mural:

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Peregrino? Si.

And here is more Bowie:

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The rest of the building (ruin) is not painted.

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David Bowie with Elizabeth — you can see the scale.

Happy hunting!  For more about our trip to Sarajevo and surrounds, check out our posts on Border Crossings and SarajevoMostar and Konjic, and Relaxing and Exercising at Vukov Konak.

Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater Safari

by Elizabeth

It seems that no trip to Tanzania is complete without going on safari.  Since we had come this far, and the famous Serengeti national park is almost in Kilimanjaro’s shadow, we decided that it would be a shame to pass up the opportunity to visit the Serengeti.  Our original plan was to hunt for a safari trip in much the same way that we found our Kilimanjaro climbing operator.  But as we visited places in Moshi before our Kilimanjaro climb, we learned that none of the budget safari operators had groups with spaces going out after we got back from our climb.  We figured that we would have better luck searching in nearby Arusha after our climb instead. 

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Looking down on the Serengeti from a small hill near the entrance gate.

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Climbing Kilimanjaro — Summit Day!

by Elizabeth

[I kept a daily journal of our Mt. Kilimanjaro summit attempt along the Machame route on my phone. That summary from our summit attempt, along with some of our photos, is below.  The summary of the first four days of our climb can be found here.  We’ll post a separate description of how we chose a climbing operator and our post-trip reflections.]

Day 5 (Aug. 12): 

5km ascent plus 22km descent, Barafu Camp (4681m/15,357ft) to Summit (5895m/19,340ft) to Mweka Hut (3090m/10,138ft) to Mweka Gate (1641m/5384ft)

We did it!  We both summited Kilimanjaro!  And we are never doing that again…

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Climbing Kilimanjaro — The Approach

by Elizabeth

[I kept a daily journal of our Mt. Kilimanjaro summit attempt along the Machame route on my phone. That summary from the first four days of our climb, along with some of our photos, is below.  We’ll post a separate description of our summit attempt, how we chose a climbing operator, and our post-trip reflections.]

Day 1 (Aug. 8):

11km, Machame Gate (1828m/6000ft) to Machame Camp (3020m/9900ft)

Day one is complete and we’re both doing really well.  The key for us today was to accept the chaos that often accompanies budget tour operations and to go with the flow.  We were supposed to be picked up from our guesthouse in Moshi between 9 and 9:30am.  Of course, they couldn’t find the place and got lost.  Our host helped us to call the trekking company and we were finally picked up around 10am.  The van picking us up was filled with our guide (Alfred) and porters, but no other climbers.  We figured that they must have been picked up separately (we had been told that we would be joined by two Austrians).  Our morning was filled with a number of stops — the gear rental shop to pick up warmer clothing for us and sleeping bags (I picked an awesome hat), a shop for snacks, and a few other stops for miscellaneous supplies. 

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Recovering in Korcula, Croatia

by Michael

Before we spent time in the Bosnian mountains, we decided that our next big move on this trip would be to Tanzania, where we could climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. Of course, Sarajevo is not the ideal airport to connect to Tanzania. After some online searches that found ridiculous flight routes (Sarajevo to Belgrade to Vienna to Istanbul to Kilimanjaro, etc.), we found a relatively inexpensive flight connection from Dubrovnik, Croatia to Kilimanjaro Airport (near Moshi, Tanzania) via Istanbul, Turkey. And near Dubrovnik is Korcula, where our friend John is living for the summer. So we decided to stop by.

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Enjoying the view during a bus stop

After a day of three border crossings (from Bosnia into Croatia, back into Bosnia, and back into Croatia — I guess it’s the way the road goes) and a bus connection in Slano, Croatia (with a break long enough for a meal) we arrived in Korcula. In typical fashion, we did not have a reservation. We had visited Korcula in 2011, but that was in May which is off-season, so it was easy to find accommodation. This time it took us a bit longer, and although we were able to find an apartment, we had to switch accommodations the next day.

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Gate to the old city of Korcula, with the Lion of Saint Mark representing that Korcula was under Venitian rule.

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View of Korcula Town from our favorite swimming spot.

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Korcula Town is a beautiful old town on the coast of Korcula Island, facing toward the Croatian mainland. The old walled town sits on a peninsula, with some old-feeling streets inland as well. It’s a great place for walks, swims, and drinks.

Our friend John was able to give us advice, including pointing us toward a couple great cafes and to avoid the row of overpriced restaurants along the water (except the one serving Asian noodles, which we couldn’t resist). John also brought us to a traditional slow-cooked meal in a neighboring town with friends who run Korcula Explorer, the best pizza on the island, another, smaller island with a restaurant and space to swim, and a nice wine bar.

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Slow-cooked lamb that had to be ordered hours ahead of time at Ranc Maha.

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Chilling along Korcula’s sea wall.

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Elizabeth did some wine tasting while I relaxed to recover.

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Because Korcula Island was not small enough, we went to a smaller island for seafood and beer.

This all matched our needs well since I was too sick for our usual, more athletic activities. We never really figured it out, but I began coughing and sneezing during our last days at Vukov Konak in Bosnia, and since our plan was to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, I needed to relax and get well. Korcula was as good a place as any to try, so we even cut out our planned two-day trip to the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro, which I guess will have to wait for another trip.

To stay the final two days, we had to move accommodations again, and booked a place online near John’s favorite cafe. When we arrived, Elizabeth and I figured out that we were in the same place where we stayed five years ago, called Apartments & Rooms Katija & Egon. It was a nice place now just as it was then, and often had a fluffy cat in the alley leading to the door.

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Not having totally recovered but having already booked our tickets to Tanzania, we took the ferry to Dubrovnik and the bus along to Caveat, a smaller town near the Dubrovnik airport, where we spent our last night before flying to Tanzania. Dubrovnik is a beautiful walled city, much larger than Korcula, but we spent enough time there five years ago and have heard that it is quite busy in the summer. It seems that Dubrovnik is great to visit off season, and Korcula is better in season, so I guess my advice to future travelers is just to visit Croatia twice!

Our flights were uneventful and we landed in Tanzania in the middle of the night.  As soon as we woke up, the first order of business was finding a guide to take us up Mt. Kilimanjaro…!

[We’re making an attempt to finally get caught up on getting our blog posts up.  This post describes our visit to Korcula, Croatia on July 28 – August 4, 2016.]

Relaxing and Exercising at Vukov Konak

by Michael

In Slovenia, our friend Nika had suggested we look into Vukov Konak, a traditional mountain house near Sarajevo where a Finnish-Bosnian couple host guests, prepare meals, and lead hikes. It sounded like the perfect solution to our difficulty getting out beyond tour group routes in Bosnia.

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Vokov Konak: the building is over a hundred years old and was beautifully rustic on the inside!

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Mostar and Konjic

by Michael

Our initial plan after visiting Sarajevo was to head into the mountains for some hiking and cooler temperatures.  On recommendation from our Slovenian friend, we looked into a mountain house near Sarajevo called Vukov Konak, but it was booked for the next few days. To pass the time, we turned further south to Mostar.  You may be familiar with Mostar from the news in the mid-1990s, when, during the Bosnian war, the Croatian militia destroyed the centuries-old bridge, often referred to as a symbol of the pointlessness of the war. Today the bridge and old town are rebuilt, though some buildings just blocks away remain hollow shells.

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The famous Stari Most (literally “old bridge”) of Mostar.

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Border Crossings and Sarajevo

by Elizabeth

Getting from Ljubljana to Sarajevo turned out to be an all day journey.  We had considered whether there was any way to break it up, but ultimately there was nothing along the way that we were particularly interested in stopping to do.  We’ve visited Zagreb on a prior trip (2011) and  stopping to raft in northern Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) was still a non-starter for my shoulder/elbow.  We opted to take the train instead of the bus, since I get car sick and can’t read or use the laptop on a bus.  In theory, the train and bus take more or less the same amount of time.

Our early morning train from Ljubljana to Zagreb, Croatia was uneventful.  The highlight was the fact that, upon crossing into Croatia, we had finally exited the Schengen zone.  We still have a couple weeks of eligibility left in the Schengen zone in case we need to return for any reason.  On our second train from Zagreb to Sarajevo we shared our 6-person compartment with one other person for the first hour and then had it to ourselves for the rest of the trip. 

We joked that in crossing over from Croatia to BiH, we would be making our own Brexit from the EU (or in our case more appropriately known as Dorsit).  As with Britain’s vote, our Dorsit did not go exactly as planned.  When our train got to the Croatian/BiH border, the Croatian engine detached from the train and left us waiting for the BiH engine to show up.  To further complicate matters, BiH has two separate political/geographic territories following the Dayton Peace Accords, so we needed a Republika Srpska engine (to be later replaced by a Bosnian engine).  We waited three hours for the new engine.  Our train had no food/beverage car.  The station that we waited at had a coffee machine and nothing else.  Not helpful on a hot day. 

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Waiting for a new engine on the Croatian side of the Croatia/BiH border.

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Stuck in Volinja.  Our passports had already been stamped by Croatian immigration officials, so for the three hours that we hung out in Volinja we were in a bit of an immigration limbo.

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