Day 21: Back on the PCT

May 8, 2017

Total miles: 8.9 miles 

Start: Big Bear Lake (mile 266.1)

End: Caribou Creek (mile 275.0)

Total elevation gain/loss: 1281.8/854.3ft

After four long (and fun) days away from the trail, we’re back! We woke early to take care of last minute town chores and enjoy breakfast with my aunt and uncle. Then it was time to rush back to Big Bear. We needed to get the car back by 1pm and we had stops to make at Target, Trader Joe’s, REI (Michael’s headlamp broke), and the Post Office (to mail weekend stuff and extra gear back to my parents). We managed to fit it all in and get the car back by about 12:50. Success! Continue reading

Days 17-20: Wedding Zeros

May 4-7, 2017

We’ve spent the last four days traveling to our good friends’ wedding in Washington DC. It was a blast and well worth our hiatus from the trail!  

We were up bright and early on Thursday morning. There went our plans to sleep in! Despite being up early, Ron had already left for work. We packed up our stuff and were out the door by 8am — just as our morning alarm went off.  

More pictures from the awesome vacation rental.


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Day 16: Marathon Into Big Bear

Total miles: 26.2 miles 

Start: Mission Camp (mile 239.9)

End: Big Bear Lake (mile 266.1)

Total elevation gain/loss: 3334.3/4444.9ft

We were up before the sun again at 4:30 to greet another beautiful morning. This morning took us up and down the mountains surrounding Big Bear. We encountered more signs about the fire today, but they only added to our confusion about what the camping restriction was supposed to mean. 

Sign suggests camping is allowed…

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Day 15: Feel the Burn

May 2, 2017

Total miles: 17.3 miles

Start: mile 222.5

End: Mission Camp (mile 239.9)

Total elevation gain/loss: 552.8/888.5ft

After yesterday’s heat, we opted to wake up at 4:30 this morning to beat the heat.  While I wasn’t necessarily thrilled when the alarm went off, our first couple of hours of hiking were amazing this morning.  The surrounding hills glowed in the early morning light and we benefitted from the abundant shade. 


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Day 13: It’s All Downhill From Fuller Ridge

April 30, 2017

Total miles: 20 miles

Start: mile 185.7

End: faucet at mile 205.7

Total elevation gain/loss: 738.5/7937.7ft

We slept in a bit this morning because we didn’t want to hit the snow on Fuller Ridge too early.  We’d heard that it was best to let the snow and ice soften a bit and I was glad to oblige.  Despite feeling utterly exhausted last night, I had a difficult time sleeping.  It probably didn’t help that we were camped on a bit of a slope.  Oh well.

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Snow patch leading up to creek crossing.  You could see where someone had slid down in the snow… into the creek.

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Day 12: San Jacinto Kicks Our Butt

April 29, 2017

Total miles: 14.3 miles (2.7 mile roadwalk, 2.6 mile Devil’s Slide trail, 3.2 miles PCT, 5.8 miles up and down San Jacinto)

Start: Idyllwild

End: mile 185.7

Total elevation gain/loss: 5717.6/2066.9ft

Today kicked my butt. The mileage may not be as high as some of our other days, but it was a tough one.

We left the comfort of our awesome cabin by 6:30. First up was the road walk to get us to the Humber Park Trailhead. With my pack heavy with 5.5 days of food and microspikes, I quickly dumped out one of my bottles of water. The guys at the outfitters said there was a faucet at the trailhead, so why carry the extra 2 pounds?

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We saw a couple yeti crossings.

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Only one hiker crossing though.

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Day 10: Walking the Mountain Fire Alternate 

April 27, 2017

Total miles: 16.5 miles (6.9 miles on PCT, 9.6 miles on alternate)

Start: mile 159.7

End: Hurley Creek Park (on alternate)

Total elevation gain/loss: 1635.5/3532.8ft

The wind roared last night, but our tent spot ended up being almost perfectly protected. I’ll take a win where I can get one. We were up at our typical 5:30am this morning and ready to finish out the open section of the PCT and begin hiking the alternate.  


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Day 9: PCT Brunch’n

April 26, 2017

Total miles: 14.3 miles (extra 1+ mile to Paradise Valley Cafe and 0.60 miles to spring)

Start: Walden water cache (mile 145.4)

End: mile 159.7

Total elevation gain/loss: 3054.1/1168.6ft

We were up bright and early with thoughts of a Paradise Valley Cafe breakfast filling our heads. Despite having 6+ miles to walk, I forewent my morning bars to make sure that I wouldn’t spoil my appetite. The miles were pretty easy and we were treated to another lovely morning.

Is this a yucca plant? It looks like a yucca fell in love with a cauliflower.


When we hit the road we attempted to hitch for a few minutes before giving up. It was only a mile, so we figured it would be faster to just walk.  

Along the way, I found someone’s inReach device (emergency beacon/gps) along the side of the road. I bet they’ll be missing that!


Paradise Valley Cafe has a great setup for hikers. Lots of shaded outdoor seating, big portions, and breakfast beers! I would have loved to try one of their burgers (the stuff of PCT legends), but they weren’t serving them for a couple more hours. A breakfast burrito it was!


I even managed to contact the owner of the inReach and sent the device ahead with someone going straight to Idyllwild so that it could be reconnected with him.

This is Cora. She is my new favorite PCT hiker. Also the only hiker to have licked my leg so far…


The big topic of conversation at the Cafe was what people are planning on doing about the Mountain Fire closure. The Mountain Fire occurred in 2013, but caused so much damage that there is still an 11 mile section of the PCT that is closed. The PCTA hasn’t issued an “official” reroute, but there are a couple reroute options. What I honestly don’t understand is why people are skipping the 15 miles of open PCT after Paradise Valley Cafe to either hitch or road-walk into Idyllwild. I get that someone might not want to do the whole detour (which includes a bit of road walking), but why skip open PCT? I aim to have a continuous set of footsteps from Mexico to Canada and to walk all open sections of the PCT, so this is a no-brainer for me: we’re walking the open trail section and the reroute (Guthooks version). Others apparently disagree and it looks like we’ll see far fewer people over the next couple of days.

Much to our surprise, we were able to catch a hitch back to the trailhead! I know it may seem contradictory with my prior rant, but I’m more than willing to avoid non-PCT miles that aren’t necessary to connect my footsteps.


The next few miles (which most people are seeming to skip this year) were amazing. We walked through huge boulder fields and were treated to expansive views. It felt like Mother Nature was trying to reward us ;). 


We ran into the two Frenchmen who we haven’t seen since Julian. Someone else is walking this section too! Of course, it couldn’t all be easy sailing through this section and most of the water in this section is off trail. 

The only on trail water we saw this afternoon. A stagnant pool (with reports that it had been stagnant for weeks). Yum!


We climbed down a steep section of trail (losing all of the altitude we’d just worked so hard to gain) to get water from a piped spring. Interestingly, there was a video camera in one of the nearby logs with a sigh saying that it was trying to record foxes and raccoons. Sadly for the researchers, I expect that much of their footage is of dirty PCT hikers filling up on water. On the bright side, the water didn’t taste like sulphur (as our water report indicated it might)!


We stopped hiking early today. This has two motivations. First, the wind today was strong and constant and we were lucky enough to find what appears to be a sheltered spot. Second, we pre-booked a hotel room in Idyllwild for Friday night and at our current pace we’re set to arrive Thursday (we booked a couple weeks ago, so we had no idea). There’s no point getting to Idyllwild early, so a couple shorter days are in order. Our bodies will thank us I’m sure.

The laundry drying tree…


Our early stop gave us plenty of time to enjoy dinner (we skipped lunch because we were still so full) before it got dark. It’s amazing how cold it’s been getting as soon as the sun goes down!

Current ailments:

Elizabeth: a couple lingering blisters; inner thigh chafing

Michael: 1 old blister; misc. muscle tightness

Day 8: Desert Cruising

April 25, 2017

Total miles: 18.5 miles

Start: Mike’s Place (mile 126.9)

End: Walden water cache (mile 145.4)

Total elevation gain/loss: 2408.8/3105ft

We woke up this morning to find that it still felt like we were in the middle of a storm. Fog wrapped around Mike’s Place and the wind continued to howl. The edges of the deck were wet with precipitation. I knew that staying in my warm sleeping bag any longer wasn’t going to change the fact that it was going to be cold as soon as I emerged.

While there was talk of a warm breakfast, we aren’t really that hungry yet and wanted to get hiking. Unfortunately, my plan to cover the bottom of the sleeping bags in our trash compactor bags (which we use to line our packs) backfired. I thought that they would keep our sleeping bags dry from the thick fog, but instead they simply created their own condensation and the bottom of our bags were wet. We packed up the wet bags with the hope that we could dry them out later on the day.

It finally cleared up as we hiked above the clouds.

Our first hour or so of walking continued to be cold and blustery.  It wasn’t until we dropped a bit in elevation that we got some sunlight (but still lots of wind).  Most of the morning we found ourselves following a single set of footprints and only seeing a single hiker going in the opposite direction. We finally met the hiker when we had to go approximately 1/3 mile off trail in order to get to a water source.  We saw the footprints heading downhill, but not coming back up.  I think we were more excited to meet the guy filtering his water than he was to see us (especially when we demanded to see the bottom of his shoes), but he didn’t bolt immediately so we must not have been that weird…



Today’s walk was very much defined by water sources.  We filled up from the water tank at Mike’s Place (~mile 127) at the start of the day, then walked off trail to find water at mile 137 (Tule Spring & Fire Tank).  With our early start, the miles seemed to go by relatively quickly.  My glute was even cooperating today!  We twisted our way through the hills, with scenery very similar to yesterday’s.  The wind kept the day feeling cool.  So much so that we cut our lunchtime siesta short because we were actually cold!  How things change over a couple days.

Yellow blooms!


At mile 145, we came upon Walden in the desert.  No, not the pond in Massachusetts, but an amazing water cache along the PCT.  In addition to a large tank of water hidden behind a grouping of trees, there were two picnic benches (luxury!), a small bookshelf with free books, and a couple life-size cardboard cutout models of David Thoreau and Walt Whitman.  Apparently the water cache is there every year, but this year there is a literary theme to celebrate the bicentennial of the publication of Thoreau’s Walden.


Even though it wasn’t yet 4pm, we opted to stop for the night at Walden.  It doesn’t hurt that there are picnic tables and a water tank here, but our primary motivation to stay is that we want to stop at the Paradise Valley Cafe tomorrow morning for breakfast.  It’s about six miles down trail and doesn’t open until 8am, so there isn’t much of a payoff to walk further today.  Of course, we weren’t the only ones with the same thought, so it looks like there will be a full house at Walden tonight!


Although we’ve been on trail for a full 8 days now, today was our first day where we didn’t walk through a town (or campground with toilets and running water).  It’s made for a very different experience from our prior backpacking trips, but has definitely helped to ease our transition on the trail (and keep our socks cleaner).

Current ailments:

Elizabeth: Inner thigh chafing!; continued maintenance of old blisters

Michael: 1 (old) blister